10-03-09

I awoke at 9,500’ to what sounded like light rain on the roof of the bus. When I opened the windshield curtains I saw a dusting of snow on the hood of my Jeep. I packed up and left early.
The sun was just coming up as I drove down the Tioga Pass, another beautiful, yet tedious mountain road. We descended in elevation quickly. By “we” I mean me and the bus. I’ve noticed myself talking to myself lately in the absence of companionship. I even caught myself talking to myself about how much I’m talking to myself recently. I don’t think I’m going mad, I’m just sharing my thoughts with whomever is available; me, the bus, trees, whatever. The Tioga Pass is treacherous, but not very long. Soon I was on Highway 395, a major highway headed south.
I stopped in Big Pine and took on a bunch of diesel fuel and dumped and filled my water tanks in preparation for Death Valley, plus I got breakfast at a local restaurant. While pulling into the lot I rocked the bus hard and heard glass fall and shatter in my cupboard. I had lost water glass 2 of 4. I’ve now lost all 4 of my wine glasses and 2 water glasses. Plastic is so tacky, but I’m starting to consider it’s benefits.
I continued south on 395 next to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. I stopped at a scenic vista, hopped out of the bus onto the ground and yelped out a shout. I’d landed on some nasty cockle burrs. I sat on my step and picked them out of my feet. I grabbed my flip flops and did a bit of exploring. The burrs were so nasty that they even stuck deep into the hard rubber soles of my flip flops.
Eventually I turned east on 136 which my map classifies as an “Other Road”. Other Roads are not hit or miss. They’re both; a hit with the scenery, a miss for easy driving. 136 is no exception. The views were unexpectedly spectacular as it wound up and down the mountains with steep cliffs and drop offs just feet from my wheels.
As I got close to Death Valley I was descending rapidly. Unlike the steep descents I was used to where I was forced to go slow due to the curves, this one was a straight shot and my speed easily would get out of control. With the engine brake off and my foot off of the brake peddle I’d watch my speedometer climb 5 mph in 3 seconds. I needed both the engine brake and air brakes to stay under control. “8% Grade, Next 8 Miles” the sign said.
I was almost down to sea level and it was blazing hot as I approached Death Valley. I heard a warning alarm come on that I was only used to hearing when I was improvising in the kitchen. It was one of my smoke detectors. “Are my brakes that hot?” I thought. There was a short place to pull off, so I pulled into it going too fast. I had to brake hard to stop before I ran out of room. I jumped out of the bus and my right rear wheels were bellowing smoke. I wasn’t sure if my brakes were on fire, or if they were just extremely hot. I wanted to call Nolan or Terry from truck driving school for emergency guidance, but I was far from any cell towers. I thought about pouring water on my brake shoes, but was worried they’d warp, or shatter. I made a mental note of where my four fire extinguishers were just in case. I waited and the smoke kept rolling. Eventually it slowed. I waited a long time to be safe, and then continued my decent at about 35 mph with the engine brake on the whole way. Soon I leveled off at sea level.
When I entered Death Valley National Park I officially got my moneys worth out of the $80 Annual Park Pass that I had purchased at the Badlands in South Dakota. I had now gotten $98 dollars worth of national parks out of it.
I stopped near some dunes where tourists from all over the globe were taking pictures. I hiked around for awhile in the sweltering heat. A vague trail lead to sand dunes in the distance. It was only about a 10 or 15 minute walk, but I understood now the name Death Valley. I considered that if I were to fall walking down a steep dune, injure myself and couldn’t walk, I’d be dead. I looked at the mountain horizon way off in the distance in all directions. Even in the best of shape I could never make it that far in the heat. Even if I could there was nothing on the other side except miles and miles of sand and heat. I went to my home, parked on the side of the road and had a glass of water in glass 3 of 4.
I drove to Furnace Creek Campground to settle in for the night. There were two campgrounds in the area that were still closed, but would be opening in a few days to start the season. Funny that I just left Yosemite where the campgrounds were closing in a few days to end the season.
I’d started the day at 9,500’ in snow and ended it at negative 196’ in the heat of a desert sand storm. Flying sand stung my eyes. I squinted hard to see Death Valley’s sunset, like fire burning in the sky above the mountains.